We had some friends staying in the same anchorage as us near Spetses having just completed a circumnavigation onboard their 54 foot Oyster Capriccio who knew the area very well and so gave us some invaluable information on the best places to eat and drink whilst we were there. They also told us of the Spetses Festival that was apparently well worth the trip and so much so that their trip to Majorca for the Oyster Regatta was going to be postponed until after the festival.
The Armata Festival happens every September and it celebrates the setting on fire of the Turkish fleet on 8th September 1822. At this time, Nafplion (around the corner from Spetses) was in Turkish hands and so the Greek fleet (owned by a local Spetsai woman called Laskarina Bouboulina) were positioned near Spetses to stop any supplies reaching Nafplion. When the Turkish fleet approached Spetses, a large fight broke out between the two countries and a local man Kosmas Barabtswis rushed through the Turkish ships and reached the flagship vessel. It was set on fire and according to tradition, it sank just off Spetses. To commemorate this, each year in September, they set fire to a model ship just off the harbour along with a huge fireworks and music display.
Saturday came and we all set off for Spetses donning our waterproofs (it poured with rain all night!). The whole town was alive with people as well as a huge array of superyachts anchored off and in the harbour (it felt like we were back in Cannes!). There was a large separation zone however around the model ship so that they all kept a safe distance from the pyrotechnics that were to follow. The model was the most amazing replica of a traditional square rigged sailing ship complete with sails but on a slightly smaller scale. We took cover in one of the local drinking holes whilst the worst of the rain fell and before the excitement began before braving it outside and finding a spot with a decent view (there weren’t many left at this stage). There was then an introduction into the story and history (all in Greek so who knows what they were saying!) followed by the beginning of the musical performance through huge speakers along the harbour front. Five water taxis then took off from the harbour armed with their flamed torches as the supposed armada to some very appropriate music and circled the bay quickly before heading for the ship. It didn’t take long to light (we’d heard there was the a massive amount of gunpowder loaded inside to ensure it gave a worthy performance) and suddenly the whole ship was engulfed in flames. We watched eagerly as the first mast fell and then soon after came the second and every time the flames found a box of gunpowder, there was the most extraordinary show of fireworks dancing out of the hull! Back onshore there were more fireworks lined up along the harbour wall which were brilliantly choreographed with the music and matched up beat to beat. We thought the best fireworks of them all were these long bright lights that would rise into the sky and then fall towards the floor but then suddenly rise again, all whilst the music in the background sang “rise, rise rise”!
Fireworks blasting from the buring ship
It was a truly impressive fireworks display and didn’t seem to be anywhere near stopping but after about half an hour of amusement, it all started to calm down with just the faint burning of the ship in the background. The rain had finally stopped falling so we went for a little walk around Spetses. It’s one of those harbour fronts that seems to go on forever with these wonderful hidden inlets with an array of brightly painted local fishing boats but most of the harbour was completely bursting with every possible gin palace/superyacht/sailing yacht possible. All the shops were still open even though it was 10:30pm and the restaurants were suddenly bustling with all the Greeks having their dinner once the celebrations had finished. We hope we’ll be able to attend again next year…
Clare
Hi Clare,
I live in Spetses, altho am English.
The boat they used for Armada last year, was not a model, but my friends boat, altered and added to, making it look like a Turkish Galleon.
This years also was a real boat done in the same way.
Usually it is a mock up boat made of plywood, but these last two, were working boats once, am so glad you enjoyed the spectacle, and a shame it rained this year too, although we had only had a spot or two of rain in the last 4 months or so, take care M
Comment by Marilyn — September 12, 2010 @ 17:35